Second only to Monaco, Bosnia and Herzegovina has the second smallest coastline in the world! Approximately 12 miles of Bosnia touches the Adriatic Sea. This little piece of Bosnia is bordered on each side by Croatia. On our trip to Bosnia, my dad and I were excited to visit the coastal town of Neum. From pictures we had seen, Neum looked like a beautiful little town on the sea, similar to those of more popular towns in Croatia. However, unlike Croatia, Bosnia is much less expensive! It may not be Dubrovnik, but Neum is a lovely alternative to the touristy and pricy cities in neighboring countries.
While we experienced beautiful views, delicious food, and kind people, it was quite a journey to get to Neum. We were coming from Mostar, and despite it being in the same country as Neum, it would have been easier to drive through Croatia to get to Neum than the route we took. However, my dad and I did not know this until after the fact.
The reason it was such a difficult drive was because of the roads in this part of Bosnia, or lack thereof. For a good portion of it, we were driving on a rocky dirt road with no signs except the occasional handmade variety pictured below. What made the drive really nerve wracking were the many twists and turns on a high hill with no rails and the narrow width of the path that only accommodated a single car. It seemed like a head-on collision was imminent.
We couldn’t believe that this was the only route to Neum. It was evident that this part of the country does not see many tourists, given the state of their national road and how difficult it was to reach the coast. The daunting drive did not stop us though. Thanks to the skilled driving of my dad, we successfully made it to Neum just before dark. Exhausted by the trek,, we were happy to be greeted so warmly by our Neum hosts.
Our time in Neum was short but sweet. We started off our morning with coffee and an amazing breakfast at Villa Maslina. We only had to step out of our room and we we were right on the water! There was no shortage of beautiful waterfront villas and hotels in Neum.
Keeping in mind that Neum is very small, there is not a whole lot to do other than relax by the water, take in the sun, and enjoy some good meals. So, if you need a relaxing escape, it’s a great place to spend a day or two if you’re in the region. Neum is a hotspot for local vacationers to spend time by the sea without having to pay a fortune like they would in towns such as Split, Croatia. It was nice to see so many families out and about swimming and walking along the waterfront.
I loved being able to step right outside our room and jump into the sea! Despite the spiky sea urchins that covered the sea floor, this was a beautiful spot to relax in the water. I spent the afternoon going back and forth between a lounge chair and swimming in what was our temporary front yard. Who could ask for more!
For dinner we ate at a great restaurant on one of the main beaches in Neum. When I think back to some of my favorite meals I have ever had while traveling, this one always comes to mind. I had freshly caught trout right from the bay in Neum perfectly prepared with lemon and garlic, and an endless supply of bread to go with it. A whole fish like this (eyeballs and all) might not sound appealing to many, but it was absolutely delicious! I especially appreciated how concerned the waiter was about me swallowing a bone, hence all the bread he kept bringing me to ensure I always took a bite of bread with every bite of fish 🙂
Less than 48 hours after we arrived in Neum, we were on the road again headed back to Mostar. This time, however, we drove north and crossed the border into Croatia. We had learned our lesson. The roads were more developed in Croatia compared to where we were in Bosnia, and therefore it was significantly faster to get to Mostar this way. Despite having to go through two border checks (Bosnia is not yet a member of the European Union), it was a less stressful drive than that treacherous narrow road in Bosnia.
Visiting Neum was a whirlwind of an adventure! Although we got off to a rocky start, literally, Neum was the perfect place to decompress and enjoy all the seaside amenities the town had to offer. It is quite an off the beaten path destination for the average traveler in the Balkans, let alone Europe. Considering this, I would recommend that if you are already in this region, definitely make the trip. If not, you can save it for another time. I enjoyed our stay in Neum, I could see the town was growing and thriving, and I look forward to going back one day.
